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Nahr al-Kalb or Dog River is little way north of Beirut, on the conqueror’s road from Europe and the Near East, or vice versa. Alexander the Great passed this way in 332 BC and Herodotus, first historian and travel writer, saw the Ramesses II carving around 440 BC. Ramesses had passed by a thousand years earlier, around 1250 BC.

Nebuchadnezzar in the 6th century BC, Roman Emperor Caracalla in 215 AD century AD, and Napoleon III in 1861 have had inscriptions carved here. The tradition continued in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries a variety of commanders of greater or lesser quality had inscriptions carved.

Two victorious Australian generals – Sir Harry Chauvel in the First World War and Sir Thomas Blamey in the Second also caused inscriptions to be carved, honouring the deeds of their forces.

Controversy attached to both events. First, because the initial inscription failed to acknowledge the Anzacs Light Horsemen, and second because of Kenneth Slessor’s acid poem about the General – not named, but obviously referring to Blamey.

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Coming in 2013 Garrie Hutchinson’s books – old (and new),  updates and corrections, galleries of photographs of Australian and New Zealand sites of remembrance and a new blog – Remember Them.

Pilgrimage: A Traveller’s Guide to New Zealanders in Two World Wars  was published by Penguin New Zealand in September 2012. Available from  Booktopia and Fishpond.

Remember Them: A Guide to Victoria’s Wartime Heritage is a Kindle book, and at the iBook store